Qussa

Stories from Afar & Up Close

Filtering by Category: English

“I’m not only perfect, I’m Lebanese too!”

perfect… It's the text on the extra tire and on a bumpersticker I saw in the United States. And it is a philosophy of life. Lebanese people are better at everything: their food is tastier than any other kitchen, they invented the alphabet and are the most highly educated population, the Lebanese women are the most good-looking women in the world, their accent the best-sounding of all Arabic accents, their sea the most beautiful and their snow the most enjoyable.

They are even better at being at war than any other country. During my research last year I came across the funniest phenomenon: people spoke with such pride about their behavior during war that it almost seemed they had wanted it to last a bit longer, just so they could display that fantastic behavior for the whole world to see. They compared themselves to Iraq, and found the Iraqis to be losers. Broken windows? They would fix those things straight after every explosion. People staying away from school or work? They would never let a war stop them from doing what they were supposed to do. And crime? No way, Lebanon was the safest country, nothing ‘illegal’ happened during any of all those wars the country has seen. (That many written sources completely contradicted this image of the absence of chaos during war did nothing to change their utopian views of Lebanon).

And recently, when a huge drugs- and prostitution cartel was rounded up by the French police in Cannes, largely consisting of Lebanese pimps (implicating the son of an important Lebanese politician, I believe), my friends only had one comment: of all the prostitutes that were found, the Lebanese girls had been the most beautiful, the most expensive, the most in demand…

I guess you should take every opportunity you have to boost your confidence if you live in a country as screwed up as this one.

Excursion to the other side

“BE-sides: Lebanon through the eyes of young photographers” is the exhibition we are on our way to visiting. Because the organization of the exhibition wants to increase communication and contact between different communities in Lebanon and they want to support the area hit hardest by last year’s war, they have chosen a location in Dahyeh – the largely Shi’a suburb south of Beirut. It’s in a place called Hangar, which is, according to the website, ‘close to such-and-such amusement park and next to a certain mosque’. Neither the driver, nor the co-pilot or my fellow-backseat passenger had ever been to Dahyeh, having grown up in the mainly Christian areas north of Beirut. It’s not the first time I am accompanying Lebanese Christians on their first visit to a Muslim part of the city, but although I am familiar with Dahyeh (an extremely densely populated area where the streets are always full of people), I had tried to attend a lecture in the ‘Hangar’ once before but never managed to find the place.

The girls have forgotten the route description in the office. They shrug it off, sure that we will easily find it. “The website said the place is next to a mosque”, my fellow backseat passenger tries to be helpful. I know we’re in for a long ride: Everything in Dahyeh is next to a mosque.

Once we get to the main road towards the suburbs, the tension starts rising; stereotypes about the Shi’a and Hezbollah are told with nervous giggles, our driver Maria swerves from one lane to another because she is afraid to miss the exit. I direct them to the general area where I know the Hangar should be and leave it up to them to ask for the exact location. It takes us three wrong turns and a hair-raising 20 meters backwards on the fast lane to get to the amusement park. It’s the wrong one.

Then, Lina remembers the name of the right park, and again we ask for directions. Maria gets more and more jittery, closing her window even before the guy has finished his last sentence. So once more we have to stop and ask. The friendly coffee-seller tells us to go back; “the other park is much nicer!” but we’re speeding off again. The sun has set, the streets of Dahyeh are dark, very dark – nothing but the yellow glow of the light-bulbs on the street-vendors carts and the neon signs on the storefronts.

Maria needs a smoke. Driving through Dahyeh with the windows open, dance-music blasting on the speakers; would this be the kind of ‘contact’ between different communities that the organization had in mind?

Finally we find the place in a tiny alley underneath, indeed, the mosque, behind a long white wall. Just as we step through the metal gate and Maria sighs “I could definitely use a drink right now…”, we find ourselves face to face with the local sheikh. Typical brown robe and a black turban – a descendant of the prophet, on top of that! Yet as at any gallery-opening, wine is served, and Maria gets her fill. Only when she leaves the Hangar to buy some cigarettes does a friendly neighbor tell her to empty the cup – it won’t be appreciated if she passes under the mosque with alcohol in her hands.*

On our way back, a more-than-slightly intoxicated Maria can no longer hide her nervousness, and when once again she thinks we are lost she panics and yells at a boy sitting in front of his cellphone-shop: “Where is the main road?!? How do I get to Ashrafiyeh [the Christian part of Beirut]?!? Tell me!! I need to go to Ashrafiyeh!!!” Lina and I can’t stop laughing. The guy ignores the fear in her voice and just waves towards the end of the road. “There, then left.” Another cigarette and then, finally, “we are out of there”.

---------- *Makes me think of one of my friends who used to live in Dahyeh and regularly had her friends over for a bit of alcoholic entertainment on the balcony. Only after the bombardments of last summer, when their building was completely destroyed, did they find out that one of Nasrallah’s apartments had been right across the street…

He who cast the first stone probably didn’t

The following is an article I found last year in the International Herald Tribune, written by Daniel Gilbert. At the time (24 July 2006), the war between Israel and Lebanon/Hezbollah had only been going on for a week, and the discussion in the international community seemed to focus mainly on the 'disproportonality' of Israel's attack. As a psychologist, Gilbert has a couple of very interesting insights on how people react to each other, and his sources are interesting psychological researches into how people rationalize their own and other's actions and reactions. I am copying his text here in its full length, because I would like to share his insights with you and the article itself is well-written en worth the read:

Long before seat belts or common sense were particularly widespread, my family made annual trips to New York in our 1963 Valiant station wagon. Mom and Dad took the front seat, my infant sister sat in my mother's lap and my brother and I had what we called "the wayback" all to ourselves.

In the wayback, we'd lounge around doing puzzles, reading comics and counting license plates. Eventually we'd fight. When our fight had finally escalated to the point of tears, our mother would turn around to chastise us, and my brother and I would start to plead our cases.

"But he hit me first," one of us would say, to which the other would inevitably add, "But he hit me harder."

It turns out that my brother and I were not alone in believing that these two claims can get a puncher off the hook. In virtually every human society, "He hit me first" provides an acceptable rationale for doing that which is otherwise forbidden. Both civil and religious law provide long lists of behaviors that are illegal or immoral - unless they are responses in kind, in which case they are perfectly fine.

After all, it is wrong to punch anyone except a puncher, and our language even has special words - like "retaliation" and "retribution" and "revenge" - whose common prefix is meant to remind us that a punch thrown second is legally and morally different than a punch thrown first.

That's why participants in every one of the globe's intractable conflicts - from Ireland to the Middle East - offer the even-numberedness of their punches as grounds for exculpation.

The problem with the principle of even-numberedness is that people count differently. Every action has a cause and a consequence: Something that led to it and something that followed from it. But research shows that while people think of their own actions as the consequences of what came before, they think of other people's actions as the causes of what came later.

In a study conducted by William Swann and colleagues at the University of Texas, pairs of volunteers played the roles of world leaders who were trying to decide whether to initiate a nuclear strike. The first volunteer was asked to make an opening statement, the second volunteer was asked to respond, the first volunteer was asked to respond to the second, and so on. At the end of the conversation, the volunteers were shown several of the statements that had been made and were asked to recall what had been said just before and just after each of them.

The results revealed an intriguing asymmetry: When volunteers were shown one of their own statements, they naturally remembered what had led them to say it. But when they were shown one of their conversation partner's statements, they naturally remembered how they had responded to it. In other words, volunteers remembered the causes of their own statements and the consequences of their partner's statements.

What seems like a grossly self- serving pattern of remembering is actually the product of two innocent facts. First, because our senses point outward, we can observe other people's actions but not our own.

Second, because mental life is a private affair, we can observe our own thoughts but not the thoughts of others. Together, these facts suggest that our reasons for punching will always be more salient to us than the punches themselves - but that the opposite will be true of other people's reasons and other people's punches.

Examples aren't hard to come by. Shiites seek revenge on Sunnis for the revenge they sought on Shiites; Irish Catholics retaliate against the Protestants who retaliated against them; and since 1948, it's hard to think of any partisan in the Middle East who has done anything but play defense. In each of these instances, people on one side claim that they are merely responding to provocation and dismiss the other side's identical claim as disingenuous spin. But research suggests that these claims reflect genuinely different perceptions of the same bloody conversation.

If the first principle of legitimate punching is that punches must be even-numbered, the second principle is that an even-numbered punch may be no more forceful than the odd- numbered punch that preceded it.

Legitimate retribution is meant to restore balance, and thus an eye for an eye is fair, but an eye for an eyelash is not. When the European Union condemned Israel for bombing Lebanon in retaliation for the kidnapping of two Israeli soldiers, it did not question Israel's right to respond, but rather, its "disproportionate use of force." It is O.K. to hit back, just not too hard.

Research shows that people have as much trouble applying the second principle as the first. In a study conducted by Sukhwinder Shergill and colleagues at University College London, pairs of volunteers were hooked up to a mechanical device that allowed each of them to exert pressure on the other volunteer's fingers.

The researcher began the game by exerting a fixed amount of pressure on the first volunteer's finger. The first volunteer was then asked to exert precisely the same amount of pressure on the second volunteer's finger. The second volunteer was then asked to exert the same amount of pressure on the first volunteer's finger. And so on.

The two volunteers took turns applying equal amounts of pressure to each other's fingers while the researchers measured the actual amount of pressure they applied.

The results were striking. Although volunteers tried to respond to each other's touches with equal force, they typically responded with about 40 percent more force than they had just experienced. Each time a volunteer was touched, he touched back harder, which led the other volunteer to touch back even harder. What began as a game of soft touches quickly became a game of moderate pokes and then hard prods, even though both volunteers were doing their level best to respond in kind.

Each volunteer was convinced that he was responding with equal force and that for some reason the other volunteer was escalating.

Neither realized that the escalation was the natural byproduct of a neurological quirk that causes the pain we receive to seem more painful than the pain we produce, so we usually give more pain than we have received.

Research teaches us that our reasons and our pains are more palpable, more obvious and real, than are the reasons and pains of others. This leads to the escalation of mutual harm, to the illusion that others are solely responsible for it and to the belief that our actions are justifiable responses to theirs.

None of this is to deny the roles that hatred, intolerance, avarice and deceit play in human conflict. It is simply to say that basic principles of human psychology are important ingredients in this miserable stew. Until we learn to stop trusting everything our brains tell us about others - and to start trusting others themselves - there will continue to be tears and recriminations in the wayback.

Daniel Gilbert, a professor of psychology at Harvard, is the author of "Stumbling on Happiness."

War of Water

“You are stealing our water!” It was a women’s voice, and she was screaming at the top of her lungs.“No I am not, you come here all the time and take everyone’s water!” the man yelled back angrily. A third one joined. “They filled it up yesterday! If you don’t steal it, then why are we out of water again now?” She was even louder and angrier than the other two.

I know wars are being fought in the Middle East over water, but I didn’t know they were being fought right outside my bedroom window, on the roof of the neighboring building. Yet here they were, and they kept screaming until the two women decided to take action, bringing their jerrycans to the roof to single-handedly fill their tank.

Water tanks on the roof

Water in Lebanon is an interesting phenomenon. Lebanon is one of the few countries in the region to have ‘rivers’ – and this definition should be taken broadly; a stream of a few meters wide is called a river – going through almost every area of the country. Water, it is jokingly said, is Lebanon’s oil: it’s a blessing and a curse in one (as the neighboring countries will always try to find ways to control the flow to their own benefit). Yet having all these streams running through the country doesn’t mean that one is guaranteed to have running water in the house, in fact, quite the opposite.

Most buildings have gigantic tanks on the roof, ranging in size from a hundred to a thousand liters of water, that provide water for all the apartments. Every few days, a government truck passes by and delivers water at street-level, that is then pumped up to these tanks on the roof. If you are unlucky, you can be out of water for quite a while – the government tank didn’t pass by; or they did but there was no electricity at the time so the pump to get it to the roof didn’t work; or the neighbors have felt the need to water all their plants and have thus used up the ration for the week, leaving the tank empty.

Meanwhile, my roommate and I have a slightly different problem in our new little house on the roof. The government truck did pass by, the electricity was there to pump it up, and the tank is still full of water as the other apartments on this floor are still uninhabited. Yet not a drop of water is coming out of our taps. The landlord can’t seem to find out what the problem is despite our repeated pleas and threats (and apparently plumbers are a rare species these days), but to prevent total social exclusion as a result of a lack of cleanliness, he gave us the keys to an empty apartment on the third floor. Showering, washing hands, doing the dishes, everything is done on the third floor. That’s why we can be seen sneaking down the stairs in our pyjamas in the middle of the night, with a roll of toilet-paper in our hands…