Qussa

Stories from Afar & Up Close

Filtering by Category: Beirut

Schone Schijn

Wij hebben een intellectueel huis, zeggen onze vrienden. Dat komt omdat we een boekenkast hebben die gemaakt is van bakstenen en oude planken en in de woon/eetkamer staat. Het komt ook omdat onze voordeur vrijwel direct uitkomt op de (open) keuken en de woon/eetkamer. Tel daarbij op dat we geen TV hebben en onze extra kamer gebruiken als slaapkamer voor gasten, en men kan niet anders dan concluderen dat wij toch wel héél eccentriek wonen. In een Libanese woning gaat dat heel anders, zeker als deze woning een upper-class appartement in Beirut is. Het begint al bij binnenkomst in het gebouw: de begane grond is betegeld met marmeren platen en dat marmer loopt door op de trap, tot de trap de hoek omgaat en uit het zicht verdwijnt: dan is graniet of zwart zeil ook goed genoeg. Iedereen neemt immers de lift, dus niemand die het ziet!

Het huis zelf is ingericht volgens ditzelfde principe: één deel voor de gasten, en één deel voor de familie zelf. De hal achter de voordeur behoort uiteraard tot het publieke gedeelte, en is daarom bij voorkeur voorzien van een grote spiegel in een gouden lijst en een groot boeket plastic bloemen. Welke kant je van daaruit opgaat, is afhankelijk van je status: goede vrienden worden toegelaten tot het familiegedeelte, waar men rondloopt in hemd en pyjama, en waar het meubilair oud maar comfortabel is. Hier hangen de vrolijke familiefoto’s, liggen de aandenkens van toen de kinderen nog klein waren, en zijn de kaarsen voor als de electriciteit uitvalt op schoteltjes vastgesmolten.

Niet iedereen wordt zomaar deelgenoot gemaakt van deze kant van het leven. Er dient indruk gemaakt te worden op het bezoek, zelfs als het de overbuurman is die komt vragen of de auto verplaatst kan worden. Met veel ‘ahla wa sahla’s worden de gasten het ‘mooie’ gedeelte van het huis binnengeleid, om plaats te nemen in één van de zitjes bestaande uit bontgedecoreerde banken en brede stoelen met krullend houten poten en armsteunen. In deze kamer staat meestal ook de piano, en zijn de muren opgesierd met geschilderde landschapjes in gouden lijsten en foto’s van de kinderen tijdens de afstudeerceremonie, met diploma in de hand. Het zijn kamers die nauwelijks gebruikt worden, maar waar de schalen constant gevuld zijn met opzichtig verpakte chocolaatjes en de vitrinekast uitpuilt van de zilveren schalen en kandelaars.

[Toen ik dit allemaal nog net helemaal door had, heb ik eens als dank een zware zilveren kandelaar aan de moeder van een vriend kado gedaan, als dank voor de tijd die ik had mogen doorbrengen in hun huis – in het familiegedeelte uiteraard. Het was me opgevallen dat de kaarsen steeds omvielen op de schoteltjes en dacht zo het nuttige met het aangename te verenigen. Niet dus: die kandelaar verdween in de glazen kast in het gastengedeelte, en de kaarsen in het woongedeelte staan nogsteeds op het punt van omvallen.]

Ik blijf het fascinerend vinden dat mensen zoveel geld uitgeven om een kamer in te richten met dikke fluwelen gordijnen, antieke kastjes en geborduurde lampekappen om die vervolgens het grootste deel van de tijd leeg te laten staan, terwijl hun kinderen met zijn tweeën of drieën een kamer delen, witte spaanplaat-bedden een halve meter uit elkaar omdat er niet meer plek is. Wat dan weer een typisch Nederlandse opvatting blijkt te zijn, omdat mijn Libanese vrienden zich regelmatig afvragen waarom bij ons alle kinderen een eigen slaapkamer moeten hebben. Waar is dat nou voor nodig?

Have you heard the plane?

Today, I was reminded of this story: It was the summer of 2001 in Kampala, the capital of Uganda. Yoweri Museveni had just been re-elected president of the republic, for the 4th time, and I was lucky enough to be present for the inaugural festivities. On an old airstrip, a rectangular empty space somewhere in the city, a stage was set up for the dignitaries: many leaders of African states, European ambassadors, several princes from Zimbabwe – even Muammar al Qadhafi came to present his well-wishes. On the rest of the field the ordinary Ugandans had gathered to watch the show, and I had joined them. I might very well have been the only white person among them. First there were speeches. Then more speeches. From where I was on the field, the stage was hardly visible, and most people were busier eating, drinking, making music and dancing than they were listening to the VIPs blabbering on stage. They had come for one thing, and one thing only: the air-show. It had been announced that the Ugandan air force would give acte de présence with the fastest machines of their fleet. And indeed, when the speeches were finally done and the formalities concluded, the sky began to rumble.

First there was one jet. Then another. They flew in opposite directions, leaving streaks of white clouds against the blue sky. They turned, quickly, roaring and thundering low over the people’s heads… An old man next to me was staring with his mouth opened wide. After a grand total of 6 rounds over the audience, the planes took off. The old man turned, took my hand and shook it wildly. With a look of pride in his eyes he said: 'now THAT’S technology!'

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This Saturday, November 22nd, it is Independence Day in Lebanon. This means that Downtown is already partly blocked off in order to clean it of bombs because many politicians eligible for explosion will be gathered there for the military parade. It also means that the entire air fleet of the Lebanese military has been flying over Beirut the past few days: all 14 helicopters (8 big ones, 6 small ones) and no less than two Hawker Hunters.

Those Hawker Hunters are no joke. They were produced in the 1950s and purchased by the Lebanese president in 1958, only to be used a few times before rusting away or being sold to a museum. However, it seems that two of them have had a thorough check up and will be performing on Independence Day, for which they are currently practicing. The noise is unmistakable, rumbling like a coughing old man. My friends keep asking ‘have you heard the plane?’, proud like the old man in Uganda, because normally we hear nothing but the thundering noise of Israeli jets – usually the only jets in the Lebanese airspace. However, they often follow the question with ‘I hope it won’t try to break the sound-barrier, because it will probably break down into a thousand pieces if it does’. Apparently they don’t quite share the old man’s faith in technology. Either way, I wish everyone a happy Independence Day!

Why, really?

Sunset in Jbeil

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So why do you like living in Lebanon? My friend, visiting from the Netherlands, asked me after a day of being harassed on the Corniche and having been overcharged with every single purchase just because we are both foreign.

I couldn’t quite think of anything, just then.

But two days later I knew full well why I like living in Lebanon. Because I can sit on the beach on a Monday night, enjoying the colors of the sunset and throwing pebbles in the water, I said.

In November! she added.

In November, indeed. It’s easy to forget one cannot wear flip-flops this time of year everywhere in the world...

The Unfair Lightness of Being

So Lebanon has a problem with electricity. Not only are the electric cords so old and rotten that with every bit of rain they break and leave whole neighborhoods in the dark, and not only is illegally tapping public power sources (streetlights and such) and refusal to pay the electricity bills a common occurrence, there also simply isn’t enough electricity. What does that mean, you ask? It means that every day, for a few hours, the electricity goes off. These power-cuts are scheduled on different hours during the week. For example, on Monday, the power cuts from 3 in the afternoon until 6 in the evening. Tuesday, it cuts from noon to 3pm. Wednesday, there is no electricity from 9am until noon, and Thursday from 6am to 9am. On Friday, the cycle starts over again at 3pm. And this is for the lucky ones in Beirut – outside of the capital, the power-cuts can go up to six, seven, eight, in some places even 10 hours a day.

In many places, people buy private generators or subscribe to a big one that provides for the whole neighborhood. Some buildings have a generator just for the elevators, but ours unfortunately doesn’t. Not that I mind a bit of physical exercise, but I do plan my grocery-shopping around the power-cut – I don’t feel the need to carry the 10-liter bottles of potable water all the way up to the 8th floor. And it’s not only the grocery shopping that gets scheduled during electricity hours; the same goes for showers (no hot water!), watching a movie (no TV / computer!) and even cleaning the house (no music!). Luxury problems, true, but inconvenient nonetheless – and I have come to realize it contributes greatly to the feeling of ‘in Lebanon, you can never decide for yourself, it’s always outside forces that determine your life’ that I have heard so many Lebanese people express over the time. It’s not just about wars and major political events; it’s the small, daily stuff that puts you out of control over your own actions.

But back to the electricity, and there not being enough of it. As I said, those of us living in Beirut are lucky, with the minimal power-cut of three hours, thanks to the strange reasoning that ‘tourists come to Beirut so the businesses there need it more than elsewhere’. With the arrival of a new minister for electric affairs, however, this unfairness was going to be addressed: cutting the electricity in Beirut for four hours a day instead of three would presumably free up enough electricity to bring back the power-cuts everywhere else in the country to five or six hours. All fair and well, right? But no, heavy protest ensued, especially from those men in the government with many followers in the city. It was even named an attack on the capital, and a continuation of the siege that happened in May. So the fair and equal distribution of electricity throughout the country never happened, and Beirut is still given preferential treatment with 21 hours of electricity a day.

Bragging about electricity

Obviously, I don’t mind, living in a house on the 8th floor with no generator. But I don’t think we need to brag about it by leaving the streetlights on even during the day…

Photographic evidence

We are having guests this week, and part of my duties as a tour-guide is a morning walk on and around the Corniche. While for my guests – a Spanish couple – everything they see is a surprise, for me this is a great opportunity to discover new details in buildings and areas I have come to know oh so well. I love passing by this building, for example:

    TV House

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There is always something going on here – some rooms, apparently, have sleeping shifts, because the beds are almost never unoccupied. There will always be someone having a drink on a balcony, someone doing laundry on another, yet someone else surveying the street from up above.

Now that the political posters have been taken down, it’s time for other questions:

Is this it?

Bous lwawa

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And also for more cryptic decorations, it seems. (For those of you unfamiliar with Arabic super-stars: that second picture is a graffiti of Umm Kalthoum, a famous Egyptian singer of endless poetic songs, uttering the words of another (in)famous singer, Haifa Wehbe: bous el wawa – 'kiss the booboo'.)

When we got to Raouche, home to the famous stones-sticking-out-of-the-sea known as the Pigeon Rocks, we were joined by a busload of tourists busily snapping pictures of this attraction. A small guy with a Polaroid camera approached us and asked if he could take a picture of us. Not interested, we told him no, but then he explained in broken Arabic that it wasn’t for us – there were two Iranian men standing with him who wanted to be in the picture with us. Who are we to deny anybody our pretty faces? we reasoned, and agreed on the portrait. The Spanish couple and me in the middle, the two guys on each side against the backdrop of the Pigeon Rocks… beautiful. Except that just before snapping the picture, one of the Iranians moved closer to the middle, pushing the Spanish boyfriend to the side, and draping an arm around the girl. Click! I didn’t see the end-result, but I am pretty sure that it showed 4 people maximum, and I wonder what their story about it will be at home…

Swimming boys