Qussa

Stories from Afar & Up Close

They did it; They did it not; They did it...?

I heard a lot of fireworks and shooting in the air tonight, so I thought one politician or another must have given yet another brilliant speech and I checked the news to see who it was. There was no mention of a speech – instead I found this: apparently there is evidence that Hezbollah was behind the murder of Rafiq Hariri in February 2005.

If that’s true, things might get ugly very, very soon.

One week late? Or sixty-one years?

Last week was the commemoration of the Nakba (Catastrophe) of 1948, when the ethnic cleansing of Palestine was in full swing – more than 400 villages were destroyed, 700.000 people were made refugees and thousands of acres of land were confiscated. Israel’s Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Foreign Affairs, Avigdor Lieberman, wants us all to forget what happened 61 years ago, so he has proposed a law to criminalize public remembrance of the anniversary of the Nakba. In January this year, I saw the following image at a demonstration against the war on Gaza:


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(Palestinian land: red; Israeli land: grey.)

Already I have no words for this situation, and know even less what to say when people are no longer even allowed to remember how it came to this. I suggest you visit here and here and here and read stories like this, to know and not to forget.

If anybody has good links or suggestions for books and articles; please leave them in the comments.

Multi-cultureel gekrakeel: in de olie

De Nederlandse ambassade organiseert deze week een ‘Holland Week’ in een van de duurste hotels van Beirut, en heeft wat chefkoks van het Amstel Hotel laten invliegen om ons stamppot, bitterballen en haring voor te schotelen. Lekker hoor, en zo origineel! Ik geloof dat er ook een paar klompenmakers zitten om aan alle belangstellenden dit waardige ambacht te onderwijzen. Het zal je niet verbazen dat het eten niet bovenaan mijn lijstje staat van dingen die ik mis uit Nederland. Het is maar goed ook dat ik het wel kan vinden met de Libanese keuken, want de verdeling bij ons in huis is zó dat Walid voor het eten zorgt – en dat betekent weinig pasta, maar heel veel bonen en aubergine. En heel, heel veel olijfolie.

Je raadt het al: een ander heikel punt in onze multi-culti relatie; onvertaalbare grapjes zijn niet het enige obstakel. Het feit dat ik geleefd heb in een tijd waarin het normaal was om alles, maar dan ook alles in boter te braden, en dat de sla met zonnebloemolie aangemaakt werd, is voor Walid onbegrijpelijk. Ik heb de transitie naar olijfolie bewust meegemaakt, terwijl hij zo ongeveer geboren is in de olijfolie; kleinzoon van een man met olijfboomgaarden die de dag begint met een eetlepel olie.

Goed, we bakken en braden in olijfolie dus – ik ben heus overtuigd van de kwaliteiten ervan. Het enige probleem is wanneer ik Walid vraag eens wat anders te koken dan Libanees – een Thaise groenteschotel met rijst, bijvoorbeeld. Ik snap dat het moeilijk is de olijfolie te laten staan als je gaat roerbakken, zelfs als er in het recept aangegeven staat dat er geen olie nodig is. Maar is het werkelijk nodig de rijstkorrels eerst te frituren voordat je ze in het water kookt? Ik vrees dat het weer zo’n gewoonte is die we nooit van elkaar zullen begrijpen – en dat ik zelf de keuken maar in moet als ik olie-loze rijst wil eten...

I hadn't heard that one before

“When there are elections in Holland, who do you vote for? I mean, why?” asked my slightly inebriated friend.“I usually vote for the party with the best program,” I said, “and then I chose the candidate I prefer.” “Ah yes…” he sighed, “that’s probably how it’s supposed to be right? Well, maybe we’ll get there in a hundred years….”

I’m playing a game of trying to find out which candidates people are going to vote for. This is not a neutral question, so most will not volunteer this information, and I have to throw in a bit of the ‘clueless foreigner-thing’ to get my answers. I usually start by asking where they will vote. The country is divided into districts, and you can only vote for the candidates from your district. Then I ask what their options are, and if they have made their choice yet.

Many of my friends vote in the third district of Beirut, which means they have to chose 10 people out of a total of 41: five Sunni seats, one Orthodox, one Druze, one Shia, one Anglican and one Minority. Some will chose one or two candidates they can get behind and leave the rest of the ballot empty, but most of them are utterly disgusted with the choice they have and say they will drop a white ballot in the box, or not vote at all; to them, the difference between candidates from the ‘majority’ and ‘opposition’ is negligible.

There are also many people who have to go to their (grand-)parents’ village because they are registered to vote there, like a friend of mine who is supposed to go to Bint Jbeil to cast her ballot. She will not go, however. Knowing that the ballots in the South often come with even less variation than those in Beirut, I was wondering if the lack of choice was preventing her from voting, but that wasn’t the case. She told me: “We don’t vote unless we know the candidate really, really well. Imagine you vote for someone who is going to stay for four years, and in that time he does something that’s bad for the people – what would you say to God? How would you answer the question why you chose him when you get to heaven?” Now that’s taking voter-responsibility to a whole new level…